Article suitable for older students
Find out moreORIGINAL QUESTION received from - and thanks to - Katia Hougaard: I am interested in the use of scent and perfume in Mexica culture. I know that they burned copal (a type of dried tree sap) as smoky room fragrance, but did the Mexica use perfume on their bodies? If so, what flowers, herbs, or animal products did they use? (Answered by Ian Mursell/Mexicolore)
Very interesting question, and in trying to answer it we’ve consulted one of the world’s leading experts in this area, and member of our Panel of Experts, Élodie Dupay García, to whom we’re most grateful.
It’s true that the first image that comes to mind here is the burning of richly smelling copal incense in a long sahumador (perfumer, censer or incense ladle) in a ritual offering to Mexica deities. Some censers and incense burners still retain today the remains of organic materials in them, and evidence for the practice is widely available in murals and codices. On a small domestic scale copal was burnt on a daily basis in Aztec homes before dawn in offerings to deity images, before being cast to the four winds. Institutionally the same - formal - ritual took place in Mexica temples four times a day and five times a night. Second to copal was rubber - both tree resins sent in tribute or trade: copal from what is today the state of Guerrero, rubber from the Maya lowlands - followed by tobacco.
Aromatic offerings served as tokens of veneration, of thanks, and of supplication to gods, principally those associated with the aquatic world and vegetation, such as Tlaloc (one of whose epithets was ‘Lord of Copal’), Chicomecóatl and Chalchiuhtlicue: if duly pleased, the latter would respond by sending divine gifts of rain and healthy crops. The white smoke from the burning copal was believed to attract (rain-bearing) clouds and to warm the atmosphere, thus preventing damaging frost from forming. This gift-exchange is confirmed by Sahagún’s informants in the Florentine Codex: in their description of the Atemoztli festival, for instance (Book 2) they write ‘When it began to thunder, the priests of the Tlalocs, with great industriousness, offered copal and other fragrances to their gods and to all the statues of these. They said that then they came to give rain...’
Of course the gods needed to be ‘fed’ as part of the Mexica belief in their duty of ‘debt payment’; the ‘food’ consisted of the fruits of human blood sacrifice and of sacred foods such as maize and cacao. It was, however, the AROMAS of these offered gifts that both attracted and ‘fed’ the gods. We give scant thought to the smell of freshly spilt and burnt human (and animal) blood and perhaps we pay insufficient attention to the rich aromatic fragrances of many Mexican flowers, herbs and trees - which collectively gave pleasure - and prestige - to the nobility in both Central Mexico and Maya territories. Yet these invisible sources of pleasure were also conveyed visually in the codices: in part by the simple act of holding bouquets of sweet smelling flowers to the nose (picture 4)...
... and in part by adding flowing elements, speech-like scrolls and comma-like glyphs above depictions of offerings. The two principal signs for aromas were flower icons and scrolls or volutes - which in other contexts could represent speech, singing, musical and sound effects and smoke. As Dupay García puts it, rhetorically, when a large flowing element is depicted emerging from a flower, what else can it represent if not its perfume (picture 5)?
Large comma-like glyphs can also be seen emanating from offerings of rubber balls - believed to be particularly loved by Mesoamerican deities - and some perfume scrolls are given zoomorphic forms (serpents, jaguars, quetzal feathers...) In some codex scenes zoomorphic entities descend from the heavens to breathe in the aromas emanating from offerings (picture 6). In all these and other rituals the same key elements - herbs, flowers, tobacco, rubber, resins - are burnt to create aromatic smoke to carry messages from humans to gods. Exactly which species was to be offered varied according to a belief in certain deities having preferences for certain perfumes, and to the time of year (rainy or dry season).
The smoking of aromatic tobacco and the breathing in of floral scents was a valued privilege and an important status symbol for both Aztec and Maya nobles, merchants and warriors. The very concept of prosperity and happiness was encapsulated in the Nahuatl paired couplet tzopelic ahuiyac, meaning ‘the fine-tasting, the good-smelling’. Possibly reflecting the wealth of aromatic flowers and plants in the lands of the Maya - the seeds of many of which were exported to Central Mexico to be planted in the gardens of Mexica nobles and royalty - we have perhaps more examples from Maya than from Aztec territory.
We know for certain that the bodies of dead Maya kings, queens and nobles were treated with perfumes to stave off the nasty smells of decomposing flesh, at least for several days whilst funerary preparations were carried out, but also for the purpose of purifying the body and imbuing it with spiritual vitality. Red pigments and liberal quantities of cinnabar and copal resin have been found on the corpses of Pakal and the Red Queen. Even today the Maya tradition of ritually washing the bones of ancestors resting in cemeteries remains widespread.
It seems probable that perfumes were used daily by the aristocracy to maintain good hygiene - all the more likely since scholars have known for many years of the therapeutic value of the ubiquitous Mesoamerican steam bath, in which body lotions based on aromatic oils with curative properties must have been frequently used. What we DON’T know is whether commoners indulged in the same practices: a topic ripe for future research! Knowing that all sectors of society were using copal in their daily offering rituals, we can speculate that they did but that is all...
At this stage in our answer we need to point out that Mesoamerican cultures did not use ‘perfume’ as we understand it today, that is, a fragrance distilled from an alcoholic base, since this technology was unknown in ancient Mesoamerica. So how were their perfumes made?
The raw materials from which fragrances were obtained were flower petals, plant cuttings, seeds and roots; the intense fragrance was extracted by pressing and soaking (‘macerating’) the plants.
A huge range of flowers were used to obtain perfumed waters in this way, including jasmine (and night-blooming jasmine), lily, May flower (‘Christmas orchid’) and frangipani - belonging to the genus Plumeria. One of Mexico’s best known flowers, the Plumeria rubra L. (called Raven flower or Cacaloxochitl in Nahuatl) was used by the Mexica to perfume a lotion used for the relief of fatigue of those in public office. The white variant, known as tizaxochitl in Nahuatl, is the Plumeria acutifolia.
In order for the perfume to be usable as a lotion on human skin, the liquid has to precipitate into semi-solid form via an ‘excipient’, a substance - filler, colouring agent, preservative - that, aided by the inclusion of salt, can fix the fragrance to extend its usable life as an aromatic oil. Common excipients in Mesoamerica were resins (such as copal), rubber and animal fats. The result is a product with cosmetic properties that unites colour and aroma in a single substance.
In summary, with the evidence that the aromas from certain flowers and plants - not only aromatic decorations but offerings to the gods in their own right - were central elements in Mesoamerican festival environments, and that fragrant perfumes were used throughout the region to venerate, preserve and please the dead, it surely would be ‘non-SCENT-sical’ to suggest that the Aztec and Maya worlds weren’t constantly enriched by delightful and delicious aromas, enjoyed by nobles and - it seems plausible - commoners alike.
Sources:-
• Élodie Dupay García (2015a): ‘Olores y sensibilidad olfativa en Mesoamérica’, Arqueología Mexicana vol. XXIII no. 135, 24-29
• Do., (2015b): ‘De vírgulas, serpientes y flores: Iconografía del olor en los códices del Centro de México’, Arqueología Mexicana vol. XXIII no. 135, 50-55
• Marisa Vázquez de Agredos, Vera Tiesler, Arturo Romano Pacheco (2015): ‘Perfumando al difunto: Fragancias y tratamientos póstumos entre la antigua aristocracia maya’, Arqueología Mexicana vol. XXIII no. 135, 30-35
• Miguel García González (2015): ‘Efluvios mensajeros: El copal y el yauhtli en los sahumadores del Templo Mayor’, Arqueología Mexicana vol. XXIII no. 135, 44-49
• Doris Heyden (1983): Mitología y simbolismo de la flora en el méxico prehispánico, UNAM, Mexico City
• The Badianus Manuscript/An Aztec Herbal of 1552, facsimile edition (The John Hopkins Press, Baltimore, 1940)
• Florentine Codex (Book 2), translated/edited by Charles E Dibble and Arthur J O Anderson, School of American Research & University of Utah, 1974.
Picture sources:-
• Pix 1 & 8: images from the Codex Tudela scanned from our own copy of the Colección Thesaurus Americae 2002 facsimile edition, Madrid
• Pic 2: photo downloaded from https://blog.chableresort.com/the-aroma-of-copal-the-incense-of-the-earth/
• Pic 3: image from the Florentine Codex scanned from our own copy of the Club Internacional del Libro 3-volume facsimile edition, Madrid, 1994
• Pic 4 (L): image from the Codex Vaticanus 3738 scanned from our own copy of the ADEVA facsimile edition, Graz, Austria, 1979; Pic 4 (R): photo by, courtesy of, thanks to and © Justin Kerr, from Research Mayavase.com (cat. no. K1599, detail)
• Pic 5: image from the Codex Borgia scanned from our own copy of the ADEVA facsimile edition, Graz, Austria, 1976
• Pic 6: Image from the Codex Cospi scanned from our own copy of the ADEVA facsimile edition, Graz, Austria, 1968
• Pic 7 (L): image scanned from our own copy of The Badianus Manuscript/An Aztec Herbal of 1552, facsimile edition (The John Hopkins Press, Baltimore, 1940); Pic 7 (R): photo (by Saga70) from Wikipedia (Plumeria rubra)
• Pic 9: image from the Codex Mendoza scanned from our own copy of the 1938 James Cooper Clark facsimile edition, London.
Katia H
20th Aug 2021
Many thanks for this wonderful article! Perhaps some enterprising perfume maker will create an Aztec inspired scent with copal, plumeria, and jasmine.