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Vanilla Pompona

29th Oct 2024

Vanilla Pompona

Mexicolore contributor Katia Hougaard

Many thanks to longstanding friend and Mexicolore supporter, Katia Hougaard, for sharing with us this essay, on Vanilla Pompona. Katia is is a PhD student researching the plant immune system, specifically how plants defend themselves against aphids, at Imperial College London. She is also a science communicator dedicated to creating educational and inspiring photography, essays, and videos on botany and gardening as “Katia Plant Scientist”. Katia has a lifelong fascination with indigenous American culture and history. She often highlights Native American contributions to horticulture and global cuisine in her plant science communication.

The botanical world is full of rare treasures awaiting discovery by plant lovers and foodies alike. Let’s uncover the Peruvian Amazon’s sweetest natural secret, Vanilla Pompona, in this essay co-written with Ashley Britton of Sekut Vanilla company.
Everyone knows the flavour of vanilla, but far fewer people would immediately identify the plant it comes from – the Vanilla Orchid (Vanilla planifolia and other species). Native to the wet tropical biomes of Mesoamerican and South America, the orchid is a climbing evergreen plant with fleshy leaves and aerial roots as well as elegant pale yellow or white flowers. Growing on rainforest trees, a single Vanilla orchid plant can grow 20 meters high and extend over an area of 200 square meters. Vanilla flavour comes from the dried and fermented seed pods, either as an extract containing the flavour compound vanillin dissolved in alcohol or as whole pods and seeds. Around 35 species of Vanilla Orchid are found in Mesoamerica and South America, with Vanilla planifolia as the most cultivated species.

Vanilla as food and medicine was discovered by indigenous people of Mesoamerica long before the Spanish invasion in 1520. Possibly, the naturally hot and humid rainforest conditions naturally fermented and steamed the wild orchids’ seed pods, which local people discovered bore a delicious taste and aroma. Historical records indicate the Totonac people were the first to use vanilla as a cacao-based beverage flavouring, and this culinary use spread to the Aztec Empire. The Spanish brought vanilla to Europe, where the flavour was mainly used in drinking chocolate and eventually spread to other kinds of sweets and desserts over the centuries. Vanilla has been produced commercially in Mexico since the late 18th century, and in other locations in European countries’ colonial empires with suitable climates after the hand pollination technique was discovered by enslaved vanilla plantation worker Edmond Albius in 1841.

Vanilla is the world’s most popular flavour, but only 1% of globally produced vanilla flavour is made from the orchid. Of that natural vanilla, 98% is from the species Vanilla planifolia, 1.99% from V. tahitensis, and the remaining 0.01% is V. pompona and other wild varieties. Pompona is an heirloom variety endemic to Peru and neighbouring countries in the Amazon Region of South America. This species is distinctive for its larger leaves and thicker pods compared V. planifolia. These flavour-filled seed pods can grow up to 35cm in length and weigh an impressive 140g each. However, this rainforest treasure has been unfairly overlooked due to its lower yields and technical challenges in curing the pods.
Vanilla Pompona is part of its local ecosystem of swampy rainforest because this species is naturally pollinated by native bees, hummingbirds and other local insects. Outside of Mesoamerican, vanilla must be hand pollinated due to the lack of native pollinators. This connection with local pollinators means Vanilla Pompona needs no hand pollination. However, seed germination is challenging and rarely observed since the seeds are covered in a protective coating that only is removed once passing through the digestive tract fruit of an unknown animal, possibly a bat. Therefore, nearly all vines are grown from cuttings.

Cultivating Vanilla Pompona could help ensure the global future of vanilla. Numerous studies have shown the Peruvian heirloom variety to be more resistant to viruses and fungus, which pose a major problem for vanilla production worldwide. This genetic resource of disease resistance is relevant to the improvement of commercial strains for a more resilient vanilla varieties to avoid crop failures in our rapidly changing world.
The word “Sekut” means vanilla in the indigenous Awajun language, and Vanilla Pompona has cultural significance to the people of the Peruvian rainforest. Married women wear dried and folded vanilla pods as necklaces and earrings to show their social status and for the pleasing scent. Instead of growing rice or coffee, which sell for less and cause more environmental disruption, Vanilla Pompona is a sustainable and ecologically friendly crop. Its cultivation is an economic boon to hundreds of indigenous families involved.

Bringing this exquisite flavour from the heart of the rainforest into your kitchen is possible thanks to Sekut Vanilla company. Unlike synthetic vanilla, natural vanilla has between 250 and 500 flavour and fragrance compounds. Vanilla Pompona beans offer a deeper and more intricate taste than standard natural vanilla extract made from V. planifolia. Described as buttery, almost caramel-like richness, combined with fruity, anisic and floral notes, this unusual version of vanilla can enhance both sweet and savoury recipes. This complexity makes Vanilla Pompona a versatile ingredient that adds flavour appeal to dishes with minimal extra calories.
Given its rarity and the labour-intensive process of cultivation and curing, Vanilla Pompona is not as readily available as other vanilla varieties. However, sourcing this extraordinary ingredient is worth the effort. If you would like to experience the unique flavour of Vanilla Pompona, please check out Sekut Vanilla to bring a rare treasure from the rainforest into your own kitchen.

References:-
• Ashley J Britton, personal correspondence
• Lubinsky, Pesach, et al. “Origins and Dispersal of Cultivated Vanilla (Vanilla Planifolia Jacks. [Orchidaceae]).” Economic Botany, vol. 62, no. 2, 2008, pp. 127–38. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/40390612. Accessed 17 July 2024
• Gallage, N.J., Møller, B.L. (2018). Vanilla: The Most Popular Flavour. In: Schwab, W., Lange, B., Wüst, M. (eds) Biotechnology of Natural Products. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-67903-7_1
https://www.kew.org/plants/vanilla#plant-uses
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vanilla_pompona
https://www.livestrong.com/article/298410-what-are-the-health-benefits-of-vanilla-extract/
• Teoh, E.S. (2019). The Story of Vanilla. In: Orchids as Aphrodisiac, Medicine or Food. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-18255-7_7.

Picture sources:-
• Image from the Florentine Codex scanned from our own copy of the Club Internacional del Libro 3-volume facsimile edition, Madrid, 1994
• Diego Rivera mural: photo by/courtesy of Georges Fery
• Vanilla Pompona images supplied by the author.

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